Dockin’ Into Bass - Your Guide to Dock Fishing
By Gary Rehbein
Dock fishing can be great fun, take the time to learn this technique and you will not be disappointed.
After dropping the trolling motor in the water, we slowly creeped up on a dock located in shallow water adjacent to large expansive weedy flat. With a quick twist of my body and a casting motion which resembled the act of skipping a rock, my bait glided gracefully to an opening between a boat lift and the large platform section of a the dock.
The plastic bait hit the water about three feet from the edge of the dock and continued for another seven to eight feet before it came to a rolling stop. The line jumped as soon as the Texas-rigged creature bait entered the water and by the time the hook was set the bass had already wrapped me up in the dock posts. However, the fluorocarbon line did its job as the fish was successfully pulled through the heavy man made cover. This is what I love about dock fishing, it is exciting, fast paced, and you are always busy. I flipped the four pound bass aboard the boat and quickly released the fish.
Dock fishing can produce some of the best fishing of the year. During certain times of the year I have witnessed sixty fish days and recently during a tournament on Gull Lake earlier this summer me and partner boated over seventy fish and reports from other anglers were the same. I have personally witnessed times when the fish pull up on dock so much that you can go back later in the day and run the same section and the docks have reloaded with fish.
Gear is a very tricky conversation point while talking with a lot of the bassin’ guys around some of the local bass fishing tournament circuits. Many use spinning equipment with braid or super line, others will use bait casters with braid/super line, monofilament, or fluorocarbon. Here is a quick guide to selecting a dockin’ set-up.
Spinning Combos
Spinning rod and reel combos are a great choice for dock fishing. They are very forgiving when you make a poor cast and are much easier to operate for newer anglers. The most common rod set-ups would be either a 6’ 6” or 7’ Medium-Heavy. Also, a heavy duty reel is needed, because you are going to tighten down the drag nearly as tight as it will go. Line is an important issue as well, many anglers opt for a no stretch super line in the 30 lb. class for may spinning set-ups. It is a great way to get started and you may never change your gear.
Bait Caster Combos
Bait casters are the fine tuned precision instrument when it comes to dockin’ bass. At this point, preference is the key to success, I clearly remember my first weeks with a bait caster trying to figure out the right tensions and line choices. The key with bait casting reels is that you need to slow the rate of line coming of the reel when you make an effective skip. I will set it up so that the weight of the lure cannot pull line off without a moderately forceful cast. This is what I have settled on as the preferred set-up:
I use a Shimano Curado 200E7, spooled with 20 lb. fluorocarbon line and a 7’ medium-heavy rod. Each choice has a specific purpose - the reel can be finely adjusted, meaning the brake system has the ability to slow down the line effectively without creating a line tangle in the reel, often referred to as a birds nest. I prefer fluorocarbon because it has less stretch, high abrasion resistance, and is nearly invisible in the water. Furthermore, 20 lb. test line skips very well and is extremely strong to pull out fish from under the many objects around dock from boat lifts, chains, and dock poles. A 7’ rod is the perfect balance of accuracy and leverage to get the fish out.
The skip is the next step and is an art form all in its own. I have perfected two different types of skipping techniques. The first is a standard side-arm throw or sling. It is as if you are trying to skip a rock, you will swing wide with a slight upward flip at the end. This will rocket the bait towards the dock at a very high speed, keeping the bait close to the waters surface. A low trajectory is key, the bait need to almost roll across the water and some times it will near the end of your cast.
The second approach is a Pitch-Skip, I start out with the bait in my hand, select my target area, then make the same motion as I would pitch into a pocket of cover. The only difference is I use a lower trajectory and speed. Timing is important, you will want to release the spool just when the bait starts to swing up very close to the water. This takes a lot of practice, much more that the side-arm approach, but is more effective in tight quarters and awkward angles.
There are three common baits used; individuals who use spinning combos usually use a wacky worm of some type and their soft plastic of choice, and bait casters will use a jig and trailer or a Texas rig and creature with a skip-gap hook. One key consideration is to peg your weight when you are using a texas-rig. Your skips will be more accurate and go much farther. Bait choices are not as important, go with what you have confidence in and make it work for you.
These are some of the basics, take the time to choose the right rod, reel, line, and bait for you. Dock fishing can be great fun, take the time to learn this technique and you will not be disappointed. It can be frustrating when you are trying to get the skipping part down, but be patient it will take some practice. You will have a great time on the water, fishing docks opens up a whole new opportunity for you to catch some of the biggest bass in the waters you are fishing.
This technique excels on days when the wind is blowing relatively good, windblown points are vary good place to start.
By Gary Rehbein
Jerk, Jerk, Pause...Jerk, Jerk, Strike! FISH ON! Seconds later, a monster bronzeback launched its self out of the water creating a beautiful silhouette agains the morning horizon. After several aerial flight attempts to throw the hooks the smallmouth reluctantly gave in and we lander her successfully in our net. After I released the fish back in to the water my fishing partner asked, “Why are you having so much success with that skinny stick?” With that simple question, so began the ten minute on the water lesson to help him become a successful jerk bait fisherman.
Hard Jerk baits, stick baits, or Rip baits have been around for many years. I have used everything from the Smithwick Rattlin’ Rogue to Lucky Craft Pointers. The basic idea has not changed, a long skinny profile, some rattles, and a bait that will suspend in the water column. Not all bait will suspend perfectly, water temp has a lot to do with this issue. Most will either sink or rise slowly in the water.
Here are some critical points of interest when considering using a jerk bait. The rod is what makes the bait move correctly; rode lengths in the range of 6’ 6” to 7’ 0” will have the right length to make an effective snap. Ones with softer tip usually work better and there are some really good jerk bait specific rods on the market. With a slower action rod, the bait will dance much better in the water, fast action rods pull the bait to much and the bait will not work properly.
The next important factor is spinning gear vs. bait casting equipment. They both have their benefits and drawbacks. Spinning reels are much easier to operate, but line twits become evident after a couple hours. Secondly, spinning gear does not handle the larger jerk baits as effective. However, spinning gear is the way to go if you are throwing lighter smaller baits like the X-Rap RX06’s and 08’s. You have a wider selection of equipment if you are partial to bait casters and they do handle larger baits better, those that are 1/2 to 5/8 oz. and larger.
Line is critical, two factors need to be addressed; line composition or type (Monofilament or Fluorocarbon) and line weight. It you want your jerk bait to run high in the water column (near the surface) you will want to choose a monofilament, because of its floating properties, and a heavier pound test line. If you want the bait to go deep, fluorocarbon in a lighter line is ideal. There are time when I will go as heavy as 15 lb. monofilament when I want the bait to be near the surface and days when 6 lb. test fluorocarbon is the key, running as deep as 8-10 feet. There are many factors to consider when making line choices. Most often, 10 pound test fluorocarbon line is perfect across many situations.
Besides equipment, the angler is the greatest factor when determining success. Cadence or jerking rhythm is the way you make the bait move through the water.
I have fished with many anglers and they have a difficult time understanding the significance of the “way” and “how” you move the bait effectively through the water. The number one problem is that most anglers jerk the bait thought the water on a tight line. This action just pulls the bait forward without much action. When you snap the bait on slack line the lure will jump and provide a very erratic action in the water. The jerking action will vary from day to day. You will have to determine what the fish wants, there will be times when you will not even be able to stop the bait, constantly jerking your bait back to the boat. Then, on other day you must let the bait sit between jerks for as much as ten to fifteen seconds, and any variation in between.
This technique excels on days when the wind is blowing relatively good, windblown points are vary good place to start. I will typically start at the base of the point (the place nearest the shallow water) and work out towards the tip. Always start on the windy side of the point, bait fish will often be blown up or into the corner. Another high percentage location is on large sprawling flats with deep water near by. Active fish will come up on top of these flats to feed and have a difficult time resisting the action of a jerk bait. The key here is that you will be covering a lot of water catching the most active fish.
Jerk bait fishing can be very exciting with the bites come very fast and vicious. One of the added perks is that you will get many bonus fish. Walleyes, pike, and muskies have all fallen prey to this effective fishing technique and it is not uncommon to have other fish following the hooked one in so be ready with a cast back rod for a quick second hook-up. Take the time to learn this effective technique, it will put fish in the boats when other approaches are unsuccessful.
Bass Fishing Goes Extreme Stealth
Carolina rigging is an effective finesse technique for luring choosy largemouth and smallmouth bass. The popularized method also performs well in clear water, like the super clarity conditions.
By Ted Pilgrim
Livebait is powerful medicine for big bass. As an overwhelmingly tempting and delicious offering, nothing can touch it. Nothing, that is, except perhaps those super-finesse Carolina rigs. When bites go south and bass lock snouts shut, virtually every top angler reaches into his bag-of-tricks for one of these premium life-mimicking rigs. The idea, and a remarkable one among bass presentations, is to hover, suspend and seductively quiver a soft plastic bait in the face of stubborn bass for extended periods of time. Sooner or later, snoots snap, debris erupts and a soft piece of plastic disappears. Pitch the rig out, give the bait occasional movements, and good things inevitably happen.
And yet, as productive as Carolina rigs can already be, enhancements and wholesale improvements perpetually enliven the game. Refinements in tackle, key components, and finally, bait selection, translate into major boosts in bites.
At first glance, it might be tempting to call a swivel the most trivial piece of any Carolina rig. Such a notion, however, is not only inaccurate, but can keep you from attaining finesse-rigging bliss. While we continuously refine presentation via camouflaged lines, leaders and sinkers, we often overlook the swivel itself. If you haven’t already read about the InvisaSwivel, it’s likely because it was originally developed to fool selective, saltwater snipers like bonefish, tarpon and snook. If it holds up in crystalline saltwater environs, it’s hard to imagine any possible freshwater limitations to the InvisaSwivel.
Made from a fluorocarbon-based material called Fluoro-Clear, this singular device not only matches the refractive index of water, but perhaps more importantly, enhances rather than impairs the rig’s performance. While serving as a superior line-twist eliminator that actually “self-lubricates” in water, an InvisaSwivel offers a bonus advantage: it hovers underwater with near neutral buoyancy. These key elements set it far apart from traditional metal swivels that sink and detract from the overall performance of a Carolina rig. In addition, this stealthy little swivel pivots smoothly to 90-degrees-plus in all directions, giving a soft plastic lizard or worm freedom of motion.
Bass pro Chris McDonald concurs: “The InvisaSwivel’s buoyancy properties impart amazing action to a Carolina rig. When I first tested this distinctive swivel, I was throwing a Carolina rig into shallow water so I could watch how it influenced performance. With the InvisaSwivel tied on, it was plain to see that the soft plastic fluke I was throwing danced back to the boat with more action than I have ever seen using a conventional metal swivel.
“Not only does an InvisaSwivel give your softbaits more action on a Carolina rig, but it also purges your line of those horrible twists. This tiny tool is a great choice for anglers who like to fish braid with a fluorocarbon leader. Simple improved clinch knots solidly connect the two lines. And the InvisaSwivel even has two innovative line-slots that totally hide and protect your knots, keeping your rig arrow-straight so it always performs naturally. It’s hard to believe a swivel can make that much difference, but this is one of those ‘little details’ that puts more bass in the boat.”
As we continue to build the ultimate Carolina rig, it’s appropriate to resume our “subtle and invisible” theme. A company called Red Buoy now offers a transparent bullet sinker they call the B2 Stealth Bullit. Composed of a lead-free crystal material, these clear bullet shaped slip-sinkers completely close the visibility gap. The inevitable result is bass whose attention stays locked onto the business end of the deal—the softbait itself, rather than the rest of the rig.
Two bait types of superlative action, appearance, and bass appeal stand above other traditional softbait offerings. When bass are feeding on baitfish, it’s often best to give them something that hovers and rides above bottom, as opposed to sinking and grinding into cover. Select tournament anglers have learned to employ a floating jighead, such as a 1/0 Mister Twister Floating Jighead or 2/0 Northland High-Ball Floater, to keep their softbaits aloft. Simply slide the floating head inside a hollow tube or swimbait, such as a Basstrix Fat Minnow or Northland Slurpies Baitfish Jiggin’ Tube. The baits’ hollow bodies even allow for the insertion of extra scent, or rattles, such as a pair of Danielson Rattle Beads. Rod jolting strikes often occur as the bait pauses and just begins its ascension.
Pull and twitch these baits along bottom for an unbelievably realistic subtle swimming action, buoyant baits slowly rising and hovering on the pause. To perfect the presentation, a longer, moderately fast action casting stick, such as a 7’3” St. Croix Legend Tournament Carolina Rig rod yields effortless casts with 18 to 36-inch rigs, while crisp, ultra-sensitive tips work baits and detect bites with unmatched precision.
Another “insider” Carolina rig bait delves deeper into the realm of customization: a 6-1/2 inch Trigger X Nightcrawler. Word is just beginning to leak regarding the phenomenal appeal of this soft, tasty morsel. But anglers who’ve used the bait in extreme finesse or pressure situations find themselves permanently designating one rod for its use. Wacky rigged or Texposed with a 1/0 VMC 7316 Wide Gap Riggin’ Worm Hook, once bass bite a Carolina-rigged Trigger X Nightcrawler, they rarely relinquish their grip.
While tournament angler McDonald often employs similar advanced Carolina riggings, he’s recently also refined his drop-shot presentations. “It seems like most of the time when I used to fish a drop-shot,” he reports, “I fought line twist more than I fought bass. The InvisaSwivel has changed all that; it’s really enhanced my drop-shot fishing. I now use a spinning combo to drop-shot a small (12-pound test) InvisaSwivel with 6 pound test fluorocarbon line.” Since fine-tuning both of his two favorite finesse bass rigs, McDonald has never looked back, forever eliminating twisted rigs, as well as significantly elevating his catch rate.
One might even say that the whole approach has begun to feel a little like finesse rigging with real live bait . . .
Bassin’ with “Heavy Weight” Jigs
By Gary Rehbein
Take a moment the next time you visit your favorite sporting goods store and look over their bass jig selection. You will notice a wide variety of fineness jigs, small and compact for those tough fishing conditions were one needs to down size to get bit. Next, you will see an assortment of swimming jigs and skirt-less specialty jigs (e.g., wacky, jig-worm, football, shaky, and the list goes on...). Then, you will run into the standard bass jigs, seemingly ignored as of late. Now, look more closely at the those jigs, they vary in sizes of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ounces. Sometimes you will find a few 3/4 or 1oz. jigs in limited numbers and colors. This brings me to my revelation of last year, heavier was better.
With a big tournament on the horizon, I had nothing going pattern wise. I was checking docks, slop, inside weed lines, deep rocks, deep weeds, nothing! In a last ditch effort to locate something I went to an area know to always hold fish, it was not a big fish location, but it had held numbers of fish in the past. I found myself using a 3/8 and 1/2 oz. jig with little to no success. I was baffled about the whole situation. In the process of leaving I heaved out one of my larger jigs on a flipping stick, it crashed though the deep weeds and before I moved my rod tip to work it in, I had a fish on. A few seconds later I was holding a 4 plus pound largemouth, ten cast later I had another fish of similar size. The next few locations produced the same results.
This is what I figured was going on. Fishing pressure was pushing the big, well educated fish deep into cover, but not shallow heavy cover where one would find them by flipping or frogging. The larger bass stayed deep and found the thickest coontail. Here is the interesting part, 3/8 and 1/2 oz. jigs would only land on top of the weeds and not penetrate deep enough into it. Once I started utilizing a heavier jig, it would go through the weeds and the fish would strike it on the way through. Heavier jigs were producing a reaction strike, which is much different than other bites were they may pick up the bait without you knowing it. The reaction strike of the bass was very explosive, as the bait make its way down through the vegetation, your line would jump them run off quickly.
Another important development or realization was that many of the bites I got where on the initial drop and they would not go after a bait being pulled through the vegetation. Boat position and cast placement was a vital component to success. I would not cast much more that 10 to 15 feet, I wanted the bait to go strait down on slack line and if nothing hit on the way down I would instantly reel in and recast. Besides the weight of the jig being heavier, I did not waste time fishing the jig back to the boat. It was an unproductive pattern.
Equipment choice is a key to landing these heavy weight bass. Going heavy is an understatement, 7’ or 7’ 6’ heavy action rod with a high speed bait casting reel, and 20 pound fluorocarbon is critical. Fluorocarbon has minimal stretch for increased sensitivity and is nearly invisible under water. It can be a challenging task, pulling a 4 or 5 pound bruiser through thick coontail and it needs to be done quickly. Light equipment equals lost fish.
When you find tough fishing conditions many individuals will tell you to go light and down size your approach and technique, some will insist on going with larger baits looking for the same results. Here is your third option, keep the size, just go heavy. The basic size of the jig and trailer did not change, only the weight of the lure and how fast it fell through the water column. Be prepared to have you rod ripped out of you hands, it is a deadly technique. Be sure to gear up right for this approach this summer, you will not be disappointed.
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