Canine Corner
Exclusive Dog Hunting Features From Roger Hess
Tailgunner Kennel, Mankato, MN
10 Steps to Developing a Skilled Hunting Dog
Pre Season tips to tune up your hunting dog
As we enter the heat of the summer it is important to eliminate heat stress and heat stroke in our dogs. Overheating a dog can cause serious damage to their intestinal organs as well as possible death. Keeping your dog cool and relaxed during the hot days should be your first concern.
Years ago the old timers in the south that trained hunting dogs for a living came up with a formula that I use as a gauge if I am going to train my dogs for any high level of exercise that day. They came up with what is called the 150 rule. If you add the current air temp and the current level of humidity together and that number reaches 150 or higher you should not over exert your dog. for example (air temp of 75 degrees and humidity of 75%) would be at the limit. Or a (90 degree air temp with a 60 degree humidity level would also be the limit). Adjusting your daily schedule to fit this guideline would be highly suggested. On the days when the limit for training has reached this level I would plan on working the dog on things like sit and stay, lay down and stay, or walking on a leash all the while in the shade or in a cool room. Sometimes you can take the dog to the lake for a swim but do not to over work the dog with retrieves. Remember the dog is still working hard to make the retrieves and the air temps are warm and the shallow water has also warmed up. Swimming in deeper water is much cooler.
Walking your dog on the hot tar roads can be hazardous too. So be careful of the hot road surfaces.
I keep my dogs well hydrated using the product REHYDRATE which can be found at Gander Mountain stores, or on line, at www.rehydratetabs.com
If I am planning a workout for my hunting dogs I will not feed them prior to a warm weather work out. The food they just ate will need water from the stomach to break down and can cause possible dehydration so I wait to feed the dog after he has cooled completely (about an hour after he has cooled off.)
Keep plenty of water available at all times and make sure the dog is in fact drinking and not just playing in the water pail.
A dog has a normal internal temp of around 101 to 103 degrees. F (checked rectally) if your dog is overheating and his internal temp is 104 or higher you need to get him cooled down. Cool water, not ice cold water under his armpits, belly, and crotch will help cool his core temp quicker than if you run water over his back and head.
Cooling the dog to fast with ice cold water can cause him to go into shock and bring his body temp down to quickly causing possible hyperthermia.
Know your dogs' signs of overheating before it is too late.
When traveling with dogs in the back of a truck or in a trailer I put a block of ice (the size of a one gallon ice cream pail) in each of the dog crates. The dogs can lick on the ice to cool off and to get water. They also lean up and hug the ice to keep cool. The melting ice will cool the dog box and turn to water that the dogs can lay in when traveling.
Keep your dogs cool and relaxed during the hot days of summer is a major priority when it comes to dog ownership.
Now that the ice has melted from our lakes, it is time to think about swimming and water training. Most breeds take to the water naturally and some of the pointing breeds like the German Wiredhaired pointer or german shorthair have webbed feet that helps makes it easier for them to swim but all first time swimmers need to have a pleasant and fun water experience.
As a professional dog trainer I want to make sure the water temp is at least 60 degrees and the air temps are in the mid 70's or warmer. Deep cold water can spook any dog for life so take your time and train when the weather is right.
Never toss your dog off of a dock or out of a boat. Even though your canine has a genetic instinct to survive (sink or swim) his first experience needs to be pleasurable. A dog's first instinct is to get his head above water to breathe and to paddle in circles to stay afloat. This is a normal animal behavior, but reducing the possibility of cold water shock, panic, and fear associated with water is based on your training methods.
Introducing a puppy to a shallow wading pond is the easiest way to build his confidence in and around the water. Wading into the water your self and encouraging the puppy to follow you is an easy way to get him to step into the water. Stay in the shallow water so he can follow you as you walk along the waters edge. His feet should be touching at all times at first. As you move farther out into deeper water check to see if your dog has any hesitation or uncertainty about following you. Toss a small bumper along the shoreline and see if he will go retrieve it. This step may encourage him to chase the bumper and forget about the water. Don't rush this training, this is not something that should be done in a hurry. Older and experienced dogs may encourage the pup to enter the water, but be careful that the pup does not get pushed under the water by the bigger dog. These steps can be used for any dog of any age but remember some breeds like water better than others.
When training in new unchartered waters it is important to check the water first for sunken hazards like fence lines, steel posts, logs, and old farm equipment. These items have been found in rivers and sloughs over the years and some dogs have been hurt from these items.
Swift current in streams and rivers can cause problems for your dog too. Inexperienced swimmers can be swept away real quick resulting in injury or death, so be careful, be aware of what the water is doing.
Unsanitary waters of retention ponds or stagnant water should be avoided due to infections and the possibility of chemicals or sewage.
Any dogs that are moving into waterfowl training need to know how to work around floating decoys and sunken anchor lines. Set out a couple of dozen decoys and teach your dog how to retrieve in and around the bobbing decoys. He will learn how to untangle his legs from the anchor lines after some practice.
Like all new training concepts it is important to take your time and to make the training fun and pleasurable for the dog.
When you think about obedience it is important to understand what obedience really is.
Having an obedient dog starts with leadership. Your dog must see you as his leader and master. Most problems associated with the lack of obedience is the fact that the dog is in control of the human. Dogs are hard wired from birth to take charge and become either a leader or a follower.
When humans lack leadership skills (and some people do) the dog will figure out that it must take on the leadership role thus taking control of everything in your life. A good leader is a good communicator, kind and gentle as well as firm and fair when it comes time for dealing with a dog.
A negative or abusive style of training will not make the dog like you or make the dog want to work with and for you.
A good leader is a forward thinker (a good leader thinks and acts moments ahead of what the dog is currently doing). Dogs live in the moment and react to situations by emotions such as fear, affection, fight, flight, or submission.
The canine mind is not proactive. He does not think about next hunting season, or what is happening tomorrow, he thinks in real time and deals with situations that are happening at that moment then reacts to it (fight, flight, submission, acceptance).
Understanding that your dog is an animal first and not a human will help you think about him in a different way. Even though he is an animal you need to treat him with kindness, feed him properly, and house him comfortably, but in reality a dog (animal) will please himself first, and survive on his own with out human control. We as humans want dogs to live in our lives so they must adapt to our ways of thinking and doing in order to be allowed into our world. Remember we don't live in their world.
Your dog is an animal first, (not human, not plant, not tool). He/she is a canine second (a predator) not a prey animal like a horse, rabbit or mouse, and he/she is breed specific (Labrador, pointer, spaniel). Your dog has characteristics that are common for (animal, predator, breed).
Your dog acts and thinks like an animal. a hunting dog should have characteristics of a predator (hunt, chase, catch) in order to be used for hunting. and your dog acts like the breed that he /she is (Labrador = hunting, swimming, retriever. Flusher = bird seeker, flush birds to flight, retriever. Pointer = big running bird finder, locate birds and stop to point general location of bird scent, hold in place) would be examples of the different breed characteristics.
Some breeds will show traits that are more common for their breed (pointing, flushing, or retrieving). Some breeds show natural abilities in many areas, and some lack certain traits that other breeds are known for. (Pointers point, but usually lack natural retrieving skills , and are not comfortable in cold water for example.)
Respect for you is also an area of obedience. Your dog must respect your leadership skills, and show confidence and trust in you and your motives.
Affection and discipline are also areas of obedience. you cant give affection only, and you cant give discipline only your dog must learn the difference so he/she can understand that certain things he/she does will command affection from you or discipline from you. (If you give your dog affection for jumping in your lap to watch tv, you can't discipline him/her for jumping in Grandmas lap at dinner time). A dog thinks that jumping in a persons lap anytime any place is a good thing because he/she will get rewarded with affection for doing it. People ask me why do dogs jump on us? When puppies were little (2-8 weeks of age) they were allowed to jump on kids to get hugs and treats so during the imprinting stage the dog becomes conditioned to jump on people to get rewards of treats and affection and when they grow and get much bigger they think and act the same way even if they are wet and muddy.
Manners is also an area of obedience, teaching your dog good manners (no jumping on people, walk nice at the heel position, lay down and be quiet) is needed to allow the dog to be out in the public. Loud, unruly, and out of control dogs are the fault of the owner, not the breeder.
Above all one word explains what obedience really is. "PERMISSION." I give a dog permission to act a certain way or to do something specific, or I do not give a dog permission to act a certain way or to do something specific. (I give a dog permission to go swimming when I say it is ok to do so, a dog does not go into the water when ever the hell he/ she wants. example would be I want the dog to stay dry at this exact moment in time, because I am going to church. I tell the dog him/her how long they can swim, and I make them stop swimming when it is time to quit. "Stop right now, get out of the water, dry off we're leaving." Don't think of this example as being harsh towards your dog, but rather you are guiding the dog through what is allowed, for how long it is allowed, and when they need to stop. or no longer allowed.
Whatever your reasons are for having a dog (family companion, hunting dog, field trial competitor) your dog, my dog, your buddies dog should all have solid obedience and manners. in order to get along and hunt together. if they don't, then they cant go on the hunt... period.
It's a great wonder why so many people don't ask for help from a pro when it comes time to train their dog.
Many people seek professional help when it comes time to fix their car or if they have a plumbing problem ,but yet feel reluctant when it comes to dog training.
Dog trainers like most business professionals specialize in areas where they have extensive knowledge and experience.
Seeking out a Pro that can help you with your individual needs can be one of the best training tools to have in your training bag.
Some Pros are breed specific (retrievers or pointers for example,) or concentrate on a level of performance such as hunt test or field trial competitions.
Educational seminars are a great way to "Learn before you crash and burn" when it comes to dog training. These seminars will help you learn more about training options and the steps you need to take to get to the area of performance that will work best for you.
Spending the off season working with a pro and perfecting the tasks that have been set up for you will ensure that you and your dog are ready for the hunting season.
Roger Hess of Tailgunner Kennel is offering his annual spring dog training event held at Traxlers hunting preserve in May of this year. Go to www.tailgunnerkennel.com for more information.
10 Steps to Developing a Skilled Hunting Dog
1Choosing a breed that fits your style of hunting. such as wild pheasants in heavy cover, Open ground of the south and west for quail, or wooded timber in the north country for grouse and woodcock.
2Choosing a breeding that fits your lifestyle and frequency of use. Family pet, gun dog, hunt tester, or field trialer.
3Raising and socializing the puppy to many new people, places, and things, to develop a confident and social dog.
4Proper introduction to live birds and gun fire to eliminate the possibility of bird blinking or gun shyness.
5Balanced leash obedience training and e-collar conditioning based on the dogs natural drive, excitability, frequency of use and level of training or hunting.
6Developing a proper retrieve to hand and complete understanding of " FETCH", "HOLD" and "GIVE" in order to deliver a game bird to hand in a usable manner.
7Establish a proper field search (quartering) to find and flush game birds.
8Marking the fall (locating a downed bird) and tracking a wounded bird on the ground.
9 Proper level of nutrition with daily exercise to develop an athletic and energy balanced Sporting dog.
10Regular vet care and maintenance.
As Winter approaches the hunting and scenting conditions will change greatly from the warm and dry conditions we have all experienced in the corn fields and grass lands in the beginning of the season to the colder air and snow covered ground that we will likely see in the weeks to come.
Hunting pheasants in these conditions will need a change of attitude from you and your dog. Wind blown snow fields don't hold scent very well, in fact it dissipates much faster than when scent was left behind from a rooster running through wet grass for example. The colder air is good to keep the dogs cooler but the air is much drier thus dehydrating your dog quickly similar to a warm fall hunt. Keeping your dog hydrated using REHYDRATE canine sports drink (www.rehydratetabs.com) will help dramtically during the winter months.
As the snow starts to pile up your dog may have to plow his way through the field to get to a bird which will put strain on his muscles from pushing and pulling his way around. He will burn mch more energy during this work out and will stretch muscles more than when he was running on the flat ground.
Keep any eye on his feet. Torn pads can and do happen on ice, he may break toe nails, tear dew claws (if not removed) over strain his ankles, knees, hips, elbows, and shoulders by slipping and sliding around on the ice. Never let a dog jump down from a truck bed onto ice covered ground. he will possibly land wrong and could hurt a hip or a knee real easy.
A rooster is a much lighter animal and can stay on top of thin ice on a lake or creek much easier than you can. Be careful sending your dog out on thin ice, he may break through and probably wont get out on his own. You will have to go in after him which means your going to get wet. hypo-thermia in dogs and humans can happen very quickly once your wet. stay high and dry as much as possible when hunting near thin ice.
Let people know where your hunting, and how long you expect to be gone. Keep a cell phone handy incase you or your dog gets into trouble. If you're hunting far away from home know your directions back to town, and keep the local vets number and fire/rescue number handy. You may need it to save your own life.
If you spend as much time busting cover for roosters as I do it is not a matter if your dog will become sprayed by a skunk, but when. Having a skunk odor eliminator kit in your hunting truck will make your trip home a little more enjoyable. Having enough ingredients for multiple dogs, or possible reskunking is a good idea. This will reduce most of the odor, but not 100 % at least your travel home will be more pleasant.
Pre Season tips to tune up your hunting dog
The 2009 Minnesota pheasant opener is October 10th. It is very important to get your hunting companion in shape for the season . One of the best ways to build his stamina during the hot weather is to have him swim for bumpers. The water is great for low impact conditioning as well as it keeps him cool enough for longer training secessions. A second way that you can help your dog get back into shape is to do a “Dead bird search”.
I will take a dog out to my training field and before I release him to hunt, I will have placed frozen birds or banded wing pigeons in the grass for hin to find and retrieve. This drill is a great motivator for your dog. It keeps him interested in searching for birds as well as working on his retrieving skills. no shooting is required. Mixing up his training routine every day will help him polish his individual skills needed to produce birds for the bag.
Changing your dogs food to a higher protein of 25-30% and a higher fat of 16-20% will help build muscle and produce more energy that he will need for the longer training days ahead. Changing your dogs food should be done gradually over about a week or so until he has made the transition and his stools look firm. Keeping your dog on a higher fat diet during the colder months will help him stay warmer and keep his weight up.
Spending time at a hunting preserve in your area is also a great way to get your dog on live flyers prior to the hunting season. shoot 3 to 6 birds a week for a few weeks will help your dog remember what his job is when the season opens.
Happy Hunting!
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